Please Do Not Post Any More Here. I have made links to this in other threads including a forging tutorial index so people will still see it but posting will only cause extra clutter.I have no intention of adding anymore as i am too lazy,so you have to be happy with whats there. Original Post starts NOW Well me and a dumb cat had a few lively posts about how to interlock with prescision and ease. If you want to see these check interlocking 101 here http://www.forgehub.com/home/index.php?topic=1206.0 Basically i figure a topic for ths would be far more helpful than the chance that they wil look at page six on a topic about how to do interlocking. I personelly use weapon holders because there small and immovable So how do YOU interlock? Lets see if we cant perfect a method that works for everyone, Heres to what may become a very useful guide: The Sleeve Method:This involves mapping out the object you are moving to interlock with other immovable objects into a "sleeve" Start off by placing your two boxes,careful this is the tricky part Set one box not to spawn and map out the other with your chosen immovable objects. I use weapon holders as they are small and don't block your view but bridges,signs,doors and other boxes work fine. As you can see the box cannot move in and direction becuase of the immovable objects covering it. Heres the main part,place the final part of the sleeve the distance you want to pull the box to interlock,you can use anything small while both boxes are spawned to give you and idea of where to place this last part.(eg street cones...or more weapon holders) Okay pull your box,the sleeve should stop it moving anywhere but your chosen spot and when you spawn the second box you should have something like this. Advantages:Takes very little room Quite fast Disadvantages:Only as accurate as you make it BULLET PROOF Displacement Method(Feel free to come up with a better name cat): This is a very precise method pitched forward by "A Dumb Cat" Okay start out with the double boxes The important part in this method is the guide boxes,in this case the singles Set one box to not spawn right away and move the other one away form your guides Place an item up against the guide. This items length governs how far into the unspawned box the interlocking box will go. For the sake of this example,the width of on wall. Replace the second box youll notice it is displaced form its original postion by one (wall width) Spawn the first box and delete your guide and you should have two perfectly interlocked boxes. Advantages:Extremely accurate,the item you place as a guide IS the distance interlocked Disadvantages: Guide boxes/items may take up more room than is possible in a half built map BULLET PROOF The God Method:Evidently used by Shock Theta and his band of merry men,this method requires decent experience in forge and the ability to remember references. Many things can be used as references Other parts of the map(eg lining this box up with that sign will have it interlock) The floor lines of foundry are given in a grid for a reason Turning a box over will reveal a grid using this grid as a reference can allow very prescise interlocking. I wouldnt know how to put this in guide form as it is mostly forge experience :S Advantages:Takes up no room with guide items,Fastest most likely Disadvantages:Requires quite good skill in forge(sorry f00bs ) Kapura's Interlocking Method(Copy pasted for l337ness) 1: I turn a DOUBLE or SINGLE box SIDEWAYS 2: I place one of my soon to be interlocked single/double boxes so that one of the lines on the SIDEWAYS BOX lines up with a reference point on the INTERLOCK BOX 1 (usually the black line near the end). 3: I set IB1 to a delayed spawn 4: New Round 5: I go find SIDEWAYS BOX 6: I spawn INTERLOCK BOX 2 on the opposite side of reference point from IB1, then align the same reference point on IB2 to the same reference point on SIDEWAYS as I did IB2 7: Wait, de-delay, winsauce.
I use reference points on other objects to line up my placement for interlocking. What I use to interlock against depends on what I'm interlocking. Personally I don't use weapon holders, however. I tend to also do alot of visual guesswork in conjunction but this can make things harder without experience - I have used more varied techniques over time to achieve the same level of accuracy faster.
Usually, I line things up with a double/single box and I mark a point on it. Sometimes, I guess and the results are pretty bad.
Thanks for the heads-up Supa... 7 Easy Steps to Better Interlocking! By 'a dumb cat' Here is an illustration of how to accurately place an interlocked object. THIS IS FOR PRECISE PLACEMENT. It will make your maps look cleaner and more professional. I am limited to simple squared alignment due to ascii characters, but this can be applied to any object, for any orientation. [THIS IS ILLUSTRATED FROM A TOP-DOWN VIEWPOINT, but it can be applied vertically as well] _________________________________________________ Step 1: Place your first object, in this case a double box at the desired location. You will be interlocking another double box with this one, so the first and second boxes are going to be BOX A and BOX B, respectively. ┌──────────────────────┐ │(You will be inter- │ │locking another box │ │with this one) │ │ BOX A │ │ │ │ │ │ │ └──────────────────────┘ _________________________________________________ Step 2: Place BOX B next to BOX A, on the side and with the orientation you desire. Also place your guide boxes on the side and back of BOX B. ┌──────────────────────┐┌──────────────────────┐┌───────────┐ │ ││ ││ │ │ ││ ││ │ │ ││ ││ guide │ │ BOX A ││ BOX B ││ box │ │ ││ ││ │ │ ││ ││ │ │ ││ ││ │ └──────────────────────┘└──────────────────────┘└───────────┘ ┌──────────────────────┐ │ │ │ │ │ guide │ │ box │ │ │ │ │ │ │ └──────────────────────┘ _________________________________________________ Step 3: Change the attributes of BOX A so it will not spawn at start (180 respawn time as well). Start a new round to have BOX A disappear for the next step. ┌ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─┐┌──────────────────────┐┌───────────┐ (Set to NOT spawn │ ││ │ │at start) ││ ││ │ │ ││ guide │ │ BOX A ││ BOX B ││ box │ │ ││ │ │ ││ ││ │ │ ││ │ └ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─┘└──────────────────────┘└───────────┘ ┌──────────────────────┐ │ │ │ │ │ guide │ │ box │ │ │ │ │ │ │ └──────────────────────┘ _________________________________________________ Step 4: In the illustation below, BOX B has not been deleted, but simply moved to the side for the moment. Place a WALL adjacent to the guide box, which will act as a measurement of how "deep" into BOX A you will be interlocking BOX B. It sounds complicated, but it is quite simple in concept. ┌ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─┐ ┌┐┌───────────┐ (BOX B has been │││ │ │ │ moved to the side) │││ │ │││ guide │ │ BOX A │ │││ box │ │││ │ │ │ WALL│││ │ │││ │ └ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─┘ └┘└───────────┘ ┌──────────────────────┐ │ │ │ │ │ guide │ │ box │ │ │ │ │ │ │ └──────────────────────┘ _________________________________________________ Step 5: With BOX A temporarily gone, place BOX B as shown, which is now left of its original position, displaced the width of one wall, to be precise. ┌ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─ ┌╤─────────────────────┐┌┐┌───────────┐ │ ││││ │ │ ││ ││││ │ │ ││││ guide │ │ BOX A ││ BOX B ││││ box │ │ ││││ │ │ ││ ││││ │ │ ││││ │ └ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─ ─ └╧─────────────────────┘└┘└───────────┘ ┌──────────────────────┐ │ │ │ │ │ guide │ │ box │ │ │ │ │ │ │ └──────────────────────┘ _________________________________________________ Step 6: Change the attributes of BOX A back no normal, so it will respawn at the beginning of the round. ┌─────────────────────╤╤─────────────────────┐┌┐┌───────────┐ │ ││ ││││ │ │ ││ ││││ │ │ ││ ││││ guide │ │ BOX A ││ BOX B ││││ box │ │ ││ ││││ │ │ ││ ││││ │ │ ││ ││││ │ └─────────────────────╧╧─────────────────────┘└┘└───────────┘ ┌──────────────────────┐ │ │ │ │ │ guide │ │ box │ │ │ │ │ │ │ └──────────────────────┘ _________________________________________________ Step 7: Delete the WALL and guide boxes, and you have a perfectly aligned interlocked object! ┌─────────────────────╤╤─────────────────────┐ │ ││ │ │ ││ │ │ ││ │ │ BOX A ││ BOX B │ │ ││ │ │ ││ │ │ ││ │ └─────────────────────╧╧─────────────────────┘ _________________________________________________ HAPPY FORGING! --a dumb cat
i use sheild doors to quide where the inter locking part needd to be i save and exit and once the interlocking item is fully following the sheild door i save and exit its really help for building polygon shaped fortresses that look good just dont forget to delete the sheild doors afterward
That seems a little imprecise, if you don't mind me saying. How do you know the inner angles of the polygon are equal (to within 1 or 2 degrees)? Maybe if I saw it in action I would think differently... --dc
I tend to do that, rarely do i use other objects anymore. I find that with practice, you can remember where an object needs to be for the start of the next round. It becomes much more valuable when time is crucial.
I wouldn't be able to rely on landmarks like that. I guess I just want clearly defined information (like boxes used as guides for measurement) without having to rely on landmarks within the map. It seems to "iffy" to me. A little bit of humor: Woman: Turn right at the tree with the tire on it! Man: What's the name of the street? Woman: I just told you! Turn, right th... We just passed it, now we have to make a U-turn! Man: *Grumble grumble...* lolz roflcopter! --dc
Right thats the thing were trying to avoid with this thread At the end(once we have a few opinions lined up) ill edit my origonal post to showcase the main methods used eg Supa midget's suggested method:<insert my method here> Shock theta's suggested method:<insert suggested method here> A dumb cat's suggested opinion:<argh me brain are frying enjoy cat's greatly formatted presentation but consult doctor if cranial rash develops (Its not really that complicated he just uses frazzling words,like illustration,orientation and other 3 or more syllabled words > Thanks for posting that again cat It took awhile to get my head around it but its very prescise and seems to work great Depending on how obsessive i feel at the time i may even post pictures for step by step idiot proof guides on each thing.... But anyone who knows me knows this probably wont happens(it sounds good tho right? lol )
I use Bridges to create barriers or stops to rest/push boxes against. Essentially, I figure out whereI want the new box to be and set up the bridges so thenew box can only be placed in one spot. Works well enough for me, and the only problem I have is the height issue. For example, when I sit boxes on teh ground upside down, for some reason a box here or there will be slightly higher than the one next to it when all I did was set it down... No pushing/pulling, etc.
So basically hiney yoummake a sleeve out of bridges so your box can only move in the desired direction? In that regard its similar to my method,i only use weapon holders as they are smaller and occasionally i am interlocking the bridges themselves into things
LOLz. I would provide a vid tutorial of this in action, but I don't have any room on my file share, nor do I have a video capture card... *sad* I may invest in a VC card because there is so much I could do with it; unless geevee decides to start working again... --dc
nah man i think ive got it down and a few pics would do it easily. UPDATE:Okay i posted full pic guides for the sleeve method and A Dumb Cats method(I was bored) However i dont quite know how to get this whole referencing method clearly into text/example so if someone else could do that particular one then i think we're in business until someone adds another good method
I map out my double box with wepon holders, but not the way you do.....here's how i do it: _________ l l lDouble Boxl l l l l l l l l l l l_________l* *Weapon holders * * I place a weapon holder right up against the side on the edge of the double box. I then set the double box to not spawn at the start, then line up about 4 other weapon holders in a straight line vertically from this view. I then start a new round then just place the edge of the double box going vertically on the first weapon holder so that I know it actually merges. Then, I just push the double box against the other weapon holders and make sure it's straight! That's all. It's worked pretty good for me IMO.
K, it just a slightly quicker way to map out the double box.....it takes like 30 total seconds to merge the two objects....it doesn't require an I.Q. over 10, and it's very quick......i can merge like 10 objects together in like 5 or 6 minutes....not sure if that's faster cause I only use my method......ill post a pic, just w8 a sec.......
K, This method is very easy and fast. First, you place a double box on the ground and set it to not respawn at the start, and to respawn after about 30 seconds: _________________________________________________ Next, you place the weapon holders in a straight line as such: _________________________________________________ Third, you start a new round. then, place a double box up against the weapon holders and make sure that it's straight: _________________________________________________ Last, delete the weapon holders, and set the run-time minimum for the double boxes to the same number as the number placed on the map. You should now have two perfect interlocked double boxes if you followed these quick, simple steps. If done right, including the restart round time, it should only take 30-40 seconds total. _________________________________________________
I usually turn a double box on it's side, so I can see the boundries, then blend the black lines on the ends of the boxes to hit a certain reference point on said double box. This eliminates the gap, and the boxes look nice too. I'm an aggressive forger, so I tend to like shoving all the way against objects.