the only thing i can see going wrong with your method frigoc is if you are interlcoking a floating object into another, When i post it up i may use a double box as the guide instead of a line of weapon holders. Oh and frig,now that i get it you can take the photo's out of your post,ill be putting up a guide later this evening Kapura i sorta get what your sayng but if you give me an example of what you mean then ill be able to post it correctly (i just want to avoid having a incorrect guide on the first post and having to re-do it)
k, i took the pics out......and you know how on the bottom of a double box, it has lines that give it like a "tile" look? Well, Kapura is trying to say that when he does it, he turns the double box to the side and places a weapon holders right on the line...then, when he interlockes the double box upside down, the lines will be connected....it basically makes it so that the lines on the bottom of the double boxes are even-sapced and give it a more aesthetic look..... P.S., if this is not what you mean Kapura, post here....
So its basically a side techniqe that could improve the accuracy of any other the methods? Oh and kapura if you like ramming things against each other i suggest a dumb cats method,its almost completely that not much TLF towards the objects required :squirrel_giggle:
Ok i see, sideways is an option but my friend has found sideways boxes are shorter and easier to jump over, something to take into account but Kap ill throw your technique up there when im editing this evening
No, not exactly. This is my method in its simplest form, not to mention I was limited to a squared-off illustration due to using ascii characters instead of pictures. The concept of my method is the most important thing to grasp, not necessarily to be used for the same objects or for the same angles. In reality, you can place any immovable item at any angle near another immovable item you want to interlock it with, and then use the "guide" method to displace how much into that object you want to interlock. Admittedly, it will probably take you a few seconds longer, but this is the most accurate method for interlocking, imo. It does not require visual measurement, so there is absolutely no error in measurement and alignment. I understand that my example is simple, but that's kind of the point so everyone can understand it a little easier. And once you get accustomed to using this, alignment becomes so much easier, even for non-interlocked items. I know, I'm OCD. But that's the only way I can work. I will post a pic of my new map, highlighting all of the interlocked pieces so you can see how OCD I really am. The guide method was used for everything. And not all of them are interlocked at right angles. --dc
This topic is really confusing lol. Are we talking about how we know where to place an object so it interlocks perfectly? I assumed everyone just used the lines and distinguishable features on the floor and the other object on the map to tell. Starting a new round only takes a couple of seconds so its easy to remember...? I use objects for reference when I'm interlocking floating objects though. What I use depends on the situation, I find windows particularly handy since you can grab object "through" them which comes in handy.
Hopefully my mad MS Paint skillz aren't too distracting... lolz. Yea right. [IMG width=640 height=360]http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/bb19/youdumbcat/interlockedhighlight.jpg[/img] This is only about 1/4 of the map displayed. There are many more interlocked pieces at different angles. The left side of the screen shot with the boxes protruding from the main wall has many "hidden" interlocks, which can't be seen. The angled boxes below the stairs are interlocked as well. The width of one Fence Wall to be exact, minimizing that "bump" you sometimes experience when walking across the top of boxes. --dc
"mad MS paint skillz" lol Basically. Theres a few methods on how to do this perfectly swimming around and it'd be good in my opinion to have a collection of them in one place easily accessible to everyone. While the foundry floor lines are good for referance that can't be used on other maps,and some people -myself included- are not very good at placing things carefully in forge on a time limit(yes,even on 180 seconds lol) Oh and a dumb cat i hope i got your method right in my first post,if i didnt correct me. What were trying to do is figure out which method has the best balance of speed and accuracy.
You are SUPER CLOSE. The one thing that I do differently is the side "guide box" (not the back one where you place the Wall). I place my first box (A), then the double guide box next to it and slide it over a little less than half way. This ensures that the second box (B) is lined up perfectly with Box A by letting it settle right up in the space created for it. You can see this in my step 2, with the side guide box (a double box) being in between box A & B. Other than that, its PERFECT. --dc
Oky dokey ill fix it up once i start doing the guides...just kinda tired so i may leav it till tomorow, BUT IT WILL GET DONE btw i lol'd at your siggy,howd you manage to do that? rofl
Well, thanks for putting words into my mouth, everyone. I don't use weapon holders. At all. (cept for blocking). What I do step by step is this: 1: I turn a DOUBLE or SINGLE box SIDEWAYS 2: I place one of my soon to be interlocked single/double boxes so that one of the lines on the SIDEWAYS BOX lines up with a reference point on the INTERLOCK BOX 1 (usually the black line near the end). 3: I set IB1 to a delayed spawn 4: New Round 5: I go find SIDEWAYS BOX 6: I spawn INTERLOCK BOX 2 on the opposite side of reference point from IB1, then align the same reference point on IB2 to the same reference point on SIDEWAYS as I did IB2 7: Wait, de-delay, winsauce. The result is boxes that almost seem to be the same bit of geometry: You also need a good eye for judging the equalities, but it's fast and accurate, and it makes flawless floors.
Ookay i get you kapura, Its sort of like frigocs way but MUCH more accurate,via the grid on a box. Sorry if i put words in your mouth i get it now
That's what I told someone that started a thread about it today. I'm not gonna make screenshots, I think a few lines is good enough.
I actually use "The God Method, and "the Displacement Method" I usually use a part of the map or something when I am making a symmetrical map to keep things the same on the both sides, and then use "guides" to make it originally. And the only other one I use is Guess and Check